Problem Of the Week #20: Billy Budd (V4)

2 Jul
While this Billy Budd DVD cover looks exciting, it's a safe bet that "Billy Budd"(V4) is a little more thrilling.

While this Billy Budd DVD cover looks exciting, It’s a safe bet that “Billy Budd”(V4) is a little more thrilling.

Billy Budd, Sailor is a Herman Melville novel that was published in 1924. The book was acclaimed by British critics as a masterpiece and quickly took its place among the canon of significant works in the United States. You can read the book if you like, but you’ll probably find that climbing the boulder problem “Billy Budd”(V4) is a little more exciting.

“Billy Budd” is located in the Right Boneyard Area on the Belgrano Blade (the name Belgrano following the naval theme) which looks sort of -maybe- something

Matt Paden on "Billy Budd"(V4). Photo by Dan Brayack.

Matt Paden on “Billy Budd”(V4). Photo by Dan Brayack.

like the bow of a sinking ship. To get there, follow the trail which cuts sharply to the right past the Thews Boulder. The trail drops through a wet-weather creek  -plenty of stones to step across, so no wet shoes- and then turns left and uphill (look to your right to find the often overlooked Flat Top Boulder at this point) to end at the Belgrano Boulder, HMS Block, River Patrol Prow, and Gunslinger.

Just as Melville’s novel is open to many interpretations, this line has several beta sequences that seem to work well for different climbers. In general, Billy Budd begins matched on a large, deep in-cut jug feature in the low left, dark, steep corner of the face. The line follows several nice crimps, a long rail, and then smaller edges up and right passing beneath the close tree at the crux, and finishes over the flat lip into the sunlight.Billy Budd4

The Belgrano boulder, while not massive or highball, can certainly be exciting when negotiating the crux in front of the tree just before the lip. With a nice landing and a few pads this boulder problem is quite protectable however, and with a spotter can be climbed with confidence. The steep nature of theboulder makes this sequence a powerful one, and the edgy flakes can take a toll of your fingers. Bring plenty of skin if youre projecting this one!

Be sure to stop by the Belgrano Boulder

Shane Messer using some interesting foot beta to finish "Billy Budd"

Shane Messer using some interesting foot beta to finish “Billy Budd”

to try out “Billy Budd”(V4), “Rights of Man”(V5), “Belgrano”(V2), “Cannonade”(V2), “Gunslinger”(V7), or any of the other fun lines in the Right Boneyard. The Constant Boulder and the newly developed Rage Boulders (Rage Boulders are not listed in the 1st edition GHSP Guide) are likewise nearby. Check out the Mountain Project page for more area climbs here: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/-belgrano-blade/106703955 and pages 50-51 in the Grayson Highlands Bouldering Guidebook!

Problem Of the Week #19: High Jump (V7/8?)

25 Jun
Snoopy, the star high-jumping rabbit of the Jena Kaninhop club.

Snoopy, the star high-jumping rabbit of the Jena Kaninhop club.

You don’t have to be an awesome high-jumping creature like Snoopy the rabbit to complete the newly established “High Jump” (V7/8). However, If you are naturally gifted with the unusual ability to leap up & cling to small crimp edges -or just psyched to try out a new boulder problem- definitely stop by the Thews Boulder next time you visit GHSP!

High Jump (V7/8?) is a recently sent project in the Middle Boneyard Area. Listed in the Grayson Highlands Bouldering

A 2010 attempt at High Jump

A 2010 attempt at High Jump

Guide as “The Nab Project”, High Jump was a long-standing project in the area. This line had been occasionally attempted -off and on- since 2010 by several visiting climbers and locals but without many “serious” projecting efforts. High Jump was finally topped out on the 20th of June 2014 with a “best guess” for the grade at v7/8…

Six feet to the left of the classic “Thews”(V6), in the middle of the featureless, blank face “High Jump” begins with a foot pasted

Posing on the start after the FA of High Jump...

Posing on the start after the FA of High Jump…

on any of the small, smeary nubs at the base of the gently overhung boulder. The start move is a standing jump to the overhead rails just below the small overhead roof. The crux of the line is latching both of the small diagonal rails and hanging on, although the moves that follow are fairly sustained. Jumping up for the start, the first holds are a right hand “lightning bolt” shaped diagonal crimp rail, the left is a slanted crimp/pinch with a low thumb-catch. While the starting jump & deadpoint up to these holds is fairly low percentage, once accomplished the sequence afterward is a lot of fun.

Posing and doing the move to the lip after the FA of High Jump.

Posing and doing the move to the lip after the FA of High Jump.

After locking off on the crimps, smear feet on anything available and “campus” out to the pinches at the lip of the roof. Trend slightly left on the longer pinch feature and heel hook out to the right over the roof. Gain the high, vertical, right facing gaston and press out a dicey mantle over the roof to finish. While you could stack three or four pads up and simply reach up to the high crimps, the jump is considered part of the problem. Let us know when you repeat the line and if you have a better suggestion for the grade. Happy High-Jumping!

-Mountain Project link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/high-jump/109130906

-GHSP Guidebook page for “Nab Project”: (pg. 42)

Problem Of the Week #18: Shang-High Knight (V6)

14 Jun
Crazy "Shanghai Knights (2003)" movie poster!

I can not promise that when climbing this problem you will look as cool as Jackie Chan or Owen Wilson in the above “Shanghai Knights (2003)” movie poster. Close, but probably not quite as cool.

The problem “Shang-High Knight” (V6) is a classic, both for the grade and for Grayson Highlands Bouldering in general. The Shang-High Boulder is a tall-ish, dark, steep boulder along the Listening Rock Trail (LRT) below the SLS Boulder. This line involves steep compression climbing leading to a fun crux dyno halfway up the face. Following the dyno are comfortable, deep holds that lead up to a standard mantle over the high lip above a flat landing.

Shang-High’s steep compression climbing is somewhat unique to many other compression climbs in that your left hand must slot with precision into specific sections of

Matze Bär on Shang-High Knight (V6)

Matze Bär on Shang-High Knight (V6)

a diagonal crack. Some portions of the crack, when accurately hit, are quite deep and juggy. If the nice sections are missed, it can be difficult to continue  on with the sequence. On the opposite, right side of the compression line you climb past smooth open handed slopers and pinches to the high hold (another sloper with a thin

Derek Samples on Shang-High Knight

Derek Samples on Shang-High Knight

crimp thumb-catch). At this point, the classic beta is to huck to the high jug rail and hold the dyno’s swing. This original beta, still my favorite, is what gave the grade its v6 points years ago. Many other beta sequences have materialized since the First Ascent including hard heel-hooks and the use of the higher, tiny, left

Nick Love (right hand with the thin thumb-catch) on Shang-High.

Nick Love (right hand with the thin thumb-catch) on Shang-High.

crimp. This beta more-or-less avoids the core intensive dynamic move to the rail. While avoiding the dyno,  the newer beta sequence is still quite difficult (Jackie Chan would still be proud) and consensus agrees that the beta still earns a V6 grade.

A particular descriptive phrase in the GHSP Bouldering Guidebook illustrates one aspect of the boulder problem, and I would like to share the background of that description here (Steven Lovelace I hope you don’t mind). Several years ago one of my best friends Steve Lovelace was projecting Shang-High Knight. Steve, a meticulously technical climber with fingers strong and thin enough to make most any section of the left crack feel comfortable, had the entire sequence memorized to the point of effortlessness. Steve could smoothly execute the

Steve Lovelace dyno-ing for a flapper on Shang-High Knight (V6).

Steve Lovelace dyno-ing for a flapper on Shang-High Knight (V6).

line up to the dyno crux with ease. He could likewise pull onto the sequence at the point of the dyno, jump for it, and finish the problem on command. The downside was that when attempting the line from the sit-start he had developed an unconscious habit of stepping his foot down to the pad when launching for the jug. While compiling the Bouldering guidebook, Dan Brayack, myself, Steve, and several others went to the Shang-High Boulder while Dan shot topo photos. Steve jumped at the chance to send his project while Danno was capturing guidebook shots. Steve breezed through the low section, set up for the pounce, and landed it with feet swinging out free from the pads. The swing however, resulted in one of the nastiest, bloody flappers you can imagine. This flapper precipitated to the guidebook description, “will leave your hands looking like a baloney sandwich got into it with a belt sander.” This  injury isn’t the norm however, but as with any dyno to a rail-like hold the chance for flappers isn’t out of the question!

Be sure to stop by Shang-High Knight and the rest of the fun problems on the Shang-High Boulder on your next visit to the LRT in Grayson Highlands State Park. For more info on bouldering at the Shang-High Boulder, check out pages 128-129 in the Grayson Highlands Bouldering Guidebook, and Mountain Project: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/shanghai-boulder/107282069

Grayson Highlands Stewardship & Bouldering Weekend 2014 Recap

3 Jun

happy-rock-haul_webThe 2014 Grayson Highlands Stewardship & Bouldering Weekend couldn’t have been more productive. With perfect weather (sunny with highs in the mid 70s) and a motivated gathering of volunteers, we got to work early on the 24th. Starting out at 9:30 on Saturday at the LRT Trailhead our goal for the day was to rock armor some of the most popular boulder along the LRT. armored-base_webWith tools for the job in hand everyone quickly got to work and rock armored the landings for 5 separate boulders which needed preventative protection for possible future erosion. Of those five boulders, the preventative armoring protected the landings of over 32 individual boulder problems, helping sustain the landings well into the future by preventing soil erosion and impact from frequent climber activity. Also on Saturday, volunteers trimmed back overgrown briars along the Listening Rock Trail,aaron-team-rock-drop moved fallen branches from trails and landings, and picked up what little trash we could locate.

On Sunday the 25th the focus was spraying off old chalk and left over tick marks. Over 10 boulders were sprayed with water guns, scrubbed, and chalk marks were removed from under the steepest sections of the boulders where rain and weather could otherwise not reach.aaron-rock-shimmer With the amazing effort from volunteers and the support from the Access Fund, AmeriCorps, Hippy Tree Surf & Stone, Mad Rock, and GHSP the event was a huge success. The afternoon raffle was able to raise funds to go toward the Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition and the Friends Of GHSP Group.

Thanks so much to all of the hardworking volunteers who made the event possible and dedicated their memorial weekend to helping support stewardship efforts in Grayson Highlands State Park and continued access to Virginia’s primer bouldering destination. A huge thank you to all of the agencies and organizations that supported the event, and to all of the event sponsors who sent some sweet volunteer and climber swag in support of the event!

7 May

Hey folks! I just made a -very- limited run of the GHSP Boulderfields Map. I’ve had numerous requests recently, and will be re-stocking some of the maps at the GHSP park office. I will likewise have a few for the GHSP Bouldering & Stewardship Weekend, May 24th-25th. You can check them out here at: https://www.etsy.com/listing/123760326/select-boulders-of-grayson-highlands? I hope you enjoy it!map

Problem Of the Week #17: True Grit (V5)

22 Apr

The name says it all. To climb this GHSP classic test piece you certainly need some true grit (and maybe a little masochism) in your character.The Truest Grit Descriptive words that are routinely used for this line go as follows: sharp, heinous, razor blades, terrible, nope, and I’m glad I didn’t lose a finger. Most resounding of them all however, is “damn that’s awesome” as the problem is sent.  After first attempting this line in 2008 I had to return to the boulder to finish it, and after using half a roll of tape I simply couldn’t think of a more fitting name. SinceRonnie Black Jr. on True Grit this steeply overhanging blade embodies all that is GHSP and with its thin crimps, slim foothold options, and burly-ish nature it has become something of a rite of passage for many visiting boulderers. The V5 grade has been historically contested as either a hard V4 or easy V5, but the overwhelming consensus and requisite pain threshold needed to complete it has secured the grade as V5. The True Grit Boulder is the first visible boulder as you drive into the park, with its proud inclination able to be viewed from the car if looking up the bank to the left as you near the contact station pay booth.

 

Brianna Knaggs on True GritTrue Grit is located along the Split Rock Bouldering Trail near the Contact Station and Park Office, within the Contact Station Bouldering Area. Hike up the short Split Rock Trail (this takes maybe two minutes if you’re limping, its midnight, and your toting 8 pads), passing the Periscope and Ranger Rick Boulders. The True Grit Boulder will be the obvious, steep, overhung blade to the left of the trail (the SRT passes directly by the boulder’s corner, you really cant miss it). Find the chalky row of thin flake crimps in the center of the boulder and follow them to the low right for the starting flake.

Stand start low, matched in or around the lowest right flake feature (match, or configure fingers however you can to postShayne Messer sending True Grit up with your feet before tossing left to the thinner middle flake). Move left to the mid flake, and then decide on one of several possible beta sequences. I won’t go over them in detail, nor do I want to spoil the skin consuming fun of deciding what to do providing you don’t flash it (which is optimal if you really don’t want to go through the sequence of descriptive words previously listed). Move through the mid, and further leftStarting True Grit flakes, and then toss up higher to the side-pull. Continue to the upper jugs to latch the “glory jug” at the top for the easiest top-out around. The landing is flat, but rocky, so bring pads!

As far as the sharpness goes, well, that’s just part of it and something to expect. Its probably not a good idea to walk up to this one expecting smooth, friendly jugs, so after reading this (andTrue Grit the guidebook description), if you find yourself curled up on your pads whimpering, or throwing a frustrated temper tantrum about the sharpness, you’re on your own and have been warned. Expect it. True Grit is a hallmark boulder problem for many folks who visit the park. I feel that this certainly is one of the sharpest lines in GHSP, but if you get this rig figured out and dialed in, you can sit back in the flakes as you pull through much less painfully. Be sure to pencil this one in if you have the grit to see it through, and enjoy!

P.S.

Sam Schiffhauer on True GritDon’t let the above “painful” description of True Grit discourage you from trying this classic. Its honestly one of, if not THE most frequented (and sent) V5s in the park, and has been a “first of the grade” for multiple climbers. Yes it is pretty sharp… But also awesome. Try it!

Mountain Project page: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/true-grit/106483563. Grayson Highlands Bouldering Guidebook (page 60).

-Big thanks to CJ Yunger for all the awesome photos!

Seasonal Closure Updates; Listening Rock & Picnic Areas.

8 Apr

Hello folks!

Nathan Blakeslee and friends enjoying the scenery from the Buzzard Rock Overlook along the LRT

Some good news for anyone who will be visiting GHSP in hopes of wrestling pebbles and pulling crimps at 5,000ft. The gate to the Listening Rock Trail (LRT) is now officially opened for the season (providing another snowstorm doesn’t hit). The Picnic Area, however, is not yet open. The Picnic Area was hit pretty hard by winter weather and the park hasn’t yet finished prepping the area for this season’s visitation. Soon though! I will post as soon as I hear that Picnic too, has open access. Have fun bouldering on some of GHSP’s finest along the LRT, and as always, please be respectful of other park visitors and be mindful of appropriate ethics anywhere you go.

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