Problem of the Week #2: Moonlight Sonata (V3)

13 Feb

While I know that “Problem of the Week” is supposed to only showcase on problem each week, I kind of want a good base of problems to kick off this blog.moon1 Likewise, as my semester ramps up and the weather warms (meaning I’ll be climbing when not studying) I may miss a week here and there… So, here is problem number two for early February 2013; Moonlight Sonata (V3) at the Moonlight Area in GHSP.

Moonlight Sonata holds a lot of weight for me, and this one is a personal favorite for the grade in GHSP moon2(Or anywhere for that matter). I would be hardpressed to think of a better V3 that I have climbed at any other destination, let alone get the First Ascent. So here is the description and the story. I hope you enjoy.

I found the Moonlight Area a while ago, but with all of the development that needed to be done elsewhere in the park I put off opening up the area for  development until I moved into my cabin at Grayson for Americorps, summer 2012. moon3 It was May 18th and I had cleaned this line and worked the bottom sequence out the week prior. I trudged down with two crash pads on my back and finished brushing the top hold necessary to mantle over. With two small pads and 25ft of steep climbing to do, I had to pick the crashpad placement carefully and hope that there were no loose holds (but it was such an inspiring line I just couldn’t wait any longer to try it). On the first attempt to send the full problem I had a nice sized chunk of  grit land in my eye. 35min later it hadn’t come out so I decided to try to send it regardless. It worked and here is the sequence:

Sit start at the base and make some fun, big moves out to the massive 6ft long flake/plank/diving board which you can campus across or work through with heel hooks if you want. Once at the end of the plank, you can literally “sit” inside of it and rest if you feel the need to, or want a photo-op (which I do not have an example of). moon4Afterward, you trend up and left through good but distant holds to top out at a notch at the edge of the boulder (and feel free to use the tree… it’s there and accepted). This thing is highball, steep the whole way, and I fully recommend many pads and spotters.

The name was inspired by Beethoven’s most popular piano composition, and I wanted something to represent this masterpiece of nature, so I found “Moonlight Sonata” to be pretty fitting.

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