Problem Of the Week #6: Never Have I Ever (V5)

3 Mar

This POW (Problem Of [the] Week) is all about “Never Have I Ever”(V5) located on the Equinox Boulder that can be found in the clandestineNHE Luminary Area of GHSP. This area is still relatively unknown and will not be covered in this first edition guidebook due to a lack of trails and thorough documentation, but the second edition will cover it in its entirety. I think some of the best boulders in GHSP exist here.

Never Have I Ever is a technical boulderer’s dream-come-true. The line forces tricky movement and body tension over its intricate finger tip crimps and slightly over-hung face. Additionally, the line ascends 15+ feet to a finish move that gives the climber full appreciation of how lofty the top of the boulder actually is.

Never Have I Ever starts low on crimp rails (half pad) and commences through a beta intensive sequence past progressively “less juggy” crimps than the ones before. Eventually you hit the crux section that necessitates a cross-over on the worst crimps in the problem. These crimps are a quarter pad at best and on slightly overhung territory (at other boulderfields this inclination would be considered pretty damn steep). Once out of the cross over, good body tension gets you to larger rails for the final huck to the only jug on the entire face. Topping out Never Have I Ever is probably around 18+ feet. The landing is very nice however, and with enough pads this will feel like a walk in the park.NHE4

This problem gets its name from the drinking game “Never Have I Ever” that most everyone has played at some point (if you haven’t, you’re not really missing out on much). While cleaning and climbing this problem during spring break (2012) I only had one pad and no spotters (and this was an undeveloped, unknown boulderfield in GHSP at the time).

 

Although this was topped out without any injury or uncontrolled falls,NHE5 cranking down on what was then new holds that had never been pulled on (thin credit card crimps) and having multiple opportunities to fling out into orbit away from the pad allowed my thought process while nearing the last move on the problem to trend toward “Never Have I Ever… been so stupid.”

Here is the link to mountain project’s page for the Equinox Boulder: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/equinox-boulder/107496432

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