Problem Of the Week #8: “Narcolepsy Crack” (V3)

27 Mar

This week’s POW (Problem Of [the] Week) covers the fun and pumpy “Narco Crack” on the Crooked Road Boulder.267277_1882482063993_1511957_n

The Crooked Road is a less traveled, tricky to find but easy to access, massive and steep boulder near the entrance of the park.The rock type for this boulder is different than most other boulders you will find in GHSP. It is still metamorphic sandstone I believe, but it is of a different composition.

The main face is tall enough to satisfy most climbers but the left portion’s height264639_1882483104019_4250788_n is ominous and super highball. The entire boulder is steeply inclined, dark (faces away from the sun and toward the hillside, and its overhung nature casts a near constant shadow which is super nice in the summer), and fairly well featured.

Narco Crack is on the right main face. The climb is steep, but follows good hands and interesting moves to a tall but confident top-out over a safe, pad friendly landing.

There are two prominent cracks on the main face of the Crooked Road Boulder and Narco follows the right crack from the low sit start. The beginning few moves, which at first seem reachy269943_1882482544005_1293285_n but there are numerous beta sequences that work for shorter boulderers, are crux and lead into massive jugs further up. Narco crack, due to its steepness, can be pretty pumpy but the quality hands and large holds up high make it easy to work. The line is straight forward and begs to be climbed. just sit start and follow the crack past featured hands to the easy top-out.

At the top of the line the top-out is more of a scramble and the view is nice and worth taking a moment to enjoy. Be sure to check out “Johnny Get Your Gun” “Life Is A House” and “Rosewood Casket” while you’re here!

 

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