Problem of the Week #19: “Lullabies For Little Criminals”(V6)

24 Sep

—-Hey! This post is about a boulder problem in the AVP Bouldering area at Grayson Highlands. If you have climbed at GHSP in general, if you have climbed at the AVP Boulders and enjoyed it, if you ever think you will visit the park, or if you just like climbing on boulders that are open to the public, please consider donating to help the Central Appalachia Climbers Coalition! The CACC is trying to purchase these boulders in order to open them back up to the public. Its a great cause, these are great boulders, and even $5 will go a long way (but if you have $500 to donate thats really cool too!). Here is the link: Save the AVP Boulders, and thank you for being amazing!—-

Lul5It is impressive to me that “Lullabies for Little Criminals” is even possible. Typically when you hear one climber say to the other something like, “Goodness gracious Bobby Joe, how are you climbing on those credit card crimps” you don’t visualize them as thin and small as actual credit cards. For Lullabies, expect credit card small. Envision American Express Platinum Blacks pasted to a slightly overhung face. This climb is technical, thin, sharp, and still to this day impressive as hell when I watch anyone make it to the top. If you are one who fancies yourself a technical crimp aficionado, welcome to heaven.Lul 1

Lullabies can be found on the wonderful Hero Boulder which finds is home just above and beyond the AVP Boulder. You will walk past great lines on the front face of Hero such as “Saves the Day” and “Crimptonight” to name a few. Round the corner of the boulder and look for the crack line called “Cumulonimbus Crack”. Just to the left, look closely to find the heinous crimp chips that are side by side. This is the start to Lullabies. Upon first sight it is alright to weep. Dry your eyes and with the help of a high foot, pull on and start crimping you face off.Lul 4

Toward the top of the line you can find better holds that lead to a nice top out. Congratulations, you truly are a great crimper. Now go try “Finger Confusion” and “Ramulus” which are to your left on the main face of the Hero Boulder. If you all three in a day I will buy you a chicken biscuit at the Grayson Highlands General Store. Enjoy!Lul6Lul7

Here is the link to the Mountain Project page where you can find even more problems on the Hero Boulder: Lullabies for Little Criminals.

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