Guidebook Updates

Here you will find any updates to the boulders, areas, or grades found in the GHSP Guidebook. This list will be listed here promptly. Please contact this site with any new information!

AVP Area:

CLOSURE! The entire AVP Area is now closed to all climbing and visitation. Please do not climb in or hike up to the AVP Area. Read more about the closure here.

    1. Broken Hold on “Wing Man”(V4): 

The start hold for the sit on “Wing Man”(V4) broke sometime in the month of May 2014. The line now goes from the stand at V2/3 or from the lower right sit at ~V5. MP link for the stand: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wing-man-stand/106586171 MP link for the sit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wing-man-sit/109027703

     2. NEW! Four Way FA (AKA Front Man Left Exit)(V8/9)

Peter Grill threw down a long standing AVP Boulder project on July 20th 2013. This is a wild left exit dyno from the classic “Front Man”(V5). Midway up the problem, head left into a small hold and dyno out to the lrft side of the roof. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/front-man-left-exit-/108260429

Crooked Road Area:

  1. Crooked Road Boulder: 1.A new problem was put up on the crooked road called “Get Your Gun Direct”(V6/7) on 5/May/2013. This starts as per “Johnny get your gun”(v5) but after the crimps, dynos from jug to higher jug to finish the tall steep face. (guidebook page 56), MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/get-your-gun-direct/108125334

Picnic Area:

Olympus Boulder:

  1. Matt Bosley put up “Hyper Moster”(Vll) on the last weekend in April 2013. This sit starts as per “Hyperion”(v10) but off the start jug, traverses right to link into the top portion of “FSM”(V7).(guidebook page 80), MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/hyper-monster/108121891
  2. Matt Bosley put up “Loose Canon”(V12) on the last weekend in April 2013. This sit starts low and a bit left of “Pastafarian”(v9/10) and “FSM”(v7) and finishes as per. (guidebook page 80), MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/loose-canon/108121905
  3. “Zeus (Stand)”(V6) is now downgraded to (V3/4). This was originally done by Shane Messer and locals a few years ago as a fun eliminate, but, as to not be confusing and to make this more fun and straight forward it will go as an easier, more common sense line at 3/4. (guidebook page 80), MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/zeus-stand/106548959
  4. “Frites & Cassoulet” (V9) is now downgraded to a consensus (v8) due to someone’s “improvement” of the key, crux foot hold this line is likely a v8 now. Let’s avoid manufacturing or tampering with boulders here and anywhere else. Down bring climbs down to your level if you cannot climb them. Bring your A game, or come back when you are stronger. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/frites–cassoulet-/106546137#a_106546159
  5. NEW PROBLEM! “Freedom Fries” (V10) was put up by NC strongman Dan Horne on July 28 2014. This line is a longer addition to the Frites traverse sequence: “Starts about 4or 5 feet to the left of frites on two crimps that make up a face in the rock with a cobble being the nose and a flake the mouth. Traverses into frites.” http://www.mountainproject.com/v/freedom-fries/110868484
  6. NEW! “Fungora Extension” (V9) Dan Horne also started as per “Freedom Fries” (above) but finished into Fulgora. Yet another cool line variation! http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fulgora-extension/110868494

Listening Rock Trail Area:

-Tiger Side Boulder:

  1. Note: For the climb “Crucifixion”(V6) the lower block/boulder has historically been treated as “off” and has been graded as such. Sorry for any misunderstanding! If the low block is used for feet the lower crux sections are no longer as challenging.

-The Hive Boulder:

  1. “The Hive Dyno”(V5) is a fun, worthwhile dyno added to The Hive Boulder on 29/may/2016.  This problem stand-starts matched on the pedistal as per “The Hive” but dynos up and out of the slight overhang to the mid-face, flat, single hand jug and finishes the rest of the climb as per “The Hive”, MP Link: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/-the-hive-dyno/111887041

Shanghai Boulder:

  1. A new one was put up on 5/May/2013 called “Dark Knight”(V7). Follow the big jug break midface on “Shanghai Knight”(v6) to the left as it descends diagonally. The jug crack tapers off to a thin crimp seam. Start standing at the end of the seam in a bad left hand crimp and a thin right facing sidepull crimp. Pull on and traverse into the jugs on Shanghai Knight and finish as per. (guidebook page 128), MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dark-knight/108124619

Front Wall:

  1. “Next Generator”(V4) is an old line that Jim Horton and company put up. Its awesome and not listed in the guide. This is to the right of “Strength in Numbers” stand starting on the long, deep diagonal jug rail. Finishes as per “Strength in Numbers”. MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/next-generator/108262694(guidebook page 110)
  2. “Strength of One”(V8) I put this one up 7/28/2013 and this is the sit to “Strength in Numbers”. Sit start in the low diagonal undercling, move up into the gnarly little crimps, and finish as per “numbers”. MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/strength-of-one/107405123(guidebook page 110)
  1. “Strength Generator”(V10) I put this one up 8/6/2013. This is the same start and two higher crimps as “strength of one”(v8) but off the crimps make a hard dyno to the right to the pocket/crimp hold, and gain the left facing side-pull/pinch underneath. Make another move to the start jug rail as “next generator” and finish as per. MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/strength-generator/108278385(guidebook page 110)

Mike-N-Ike Boulder, LRT:

  1. A new addition to the Mike-N-Ike Boulder. “Ballad of Curtis Loew”(V4/5). MP link to the problem description: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/ballad-of-curtis-loew/109027803

-Beast Boulder,

  1. “Man Child”  (V6) is now a (V5) A hold has broken sometime within the spring 2015 timeframe. The grade on this problem is now V5, as opposed to the historical harder V6 grade. This is due to the mostly unused, horrible, sloped edge flake breaking. This hold was in the middle of what used to be a big move on steeper terrain. Mow the climber can pause and bump through. The broken hold left a very useable, in-cut diagonal (almost) side-pull edge closer to the climber. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/man-child/107349085#a_107349086

-Trails End Boulder,

  1. “Crap-Shoot Project” (V-Project). This project is pretty terrible. It is also somehow fun because of how obviously not-classic it is. To the far right of the boulder (right of Hullabaloo) is the sit start of this one. Try it out, if you really want to, and hopefully you manage the quick send. Here is the link: Crap-Shoot Project

-Moonlight Boulder,

  1. “Socrates”(V6) is now (V8) The star hold broke off completely making this a much more difficult move. What used to be a very hard move off of a small rail is now a bigger move off of two individually worse holds. This also applies to the extension of this as “So Long Socrates” (V8+)

-Underking Boulder

  1. New Line! “Walk Hard”(V2) is the direct slab line off of the same start as per “Walk The Line”(V1).

Contact Station/Alchemy Areas (Split Rock Trail):

Fire Boulder:

  1. This new one went up on 17/May/2013. It’s called “Combustion”(V5/6) and is found under the left side of the steep face, to the left of “Catalyst” (V7). Start on two mid-face good, side-by-side, crimp edges (sit start). Pop up to the far sidepull rail up and left, and then to the two good crimp buckets (also side-by-side), and follow direct to the top-out. (Guidebook page: 73) MP Link:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/combustion/108146534

Water Boulder

  1. 17/May/2013: “Transpiration Traverse” (V5/6) starts at the far left, low point of the crack across the face of the boulder from the low start. Traverse the long, but juggy, ascending crack to the top. Do the technical top out over the tree. (Guidebook page 74) MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/transpiration-traverse/108146566
  2. 2. 17/May/2013: “Transpiration Direct” (V5/6) sit starts directly below the top out below the long thin seam crack that runs straight down. Start in the sidepull jug at the base of the crack (and whatever edge for your left hand) and climb up direct to top out as per “trans traverse.” (Guidebook page 74) MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/transpiration-direct/108146594
  3. 28/June/2013: “Gum Drops (Sit)”(V7) Sit start low and left under (Stand) on a deep, long, jug flake rail. Move up and right through a few tenuous crimp/pockets to gain the “candy pieces” (smooth pebbles) to start as per “Gum Drops Stand”. Finish as per. (Guidebook page 74) MP Link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/gum-drops-sit/108216935
  4. NEW TRAIL! In the guidebook you will see the Alchemy area boulders and the Contact Station boulders as “apart”. Now the new Split Rock Bouldering Trail connects the areas via a 1.3 mile, easy, scenic loop. USE IT! It’s built with boulderers in mind!

Middle Boneyard:

-Thews Boulder

  1. 1. A long standing project (The Nab Project) was sent on June 20th 2014. “High Jump” (V7/8?) is located to the left of “Thews”(V6) and is a jump start problem. Here is the Mountain Project link to the problem description: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/high-jump/109130906#a_109130909 and is listed as “The Nab Project”(V8) on page 42 in the GHSP Bouldering Guidebook.

-Episode Boulder

  1. “Season Premier”(V6). An old problem that broke, “season premier” was not listed in the guidebook as I was thought to be impossible without a hold. This line was sent June 5th and goes at (V6ish) with the same name, “Season Premier.” The MP link is: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/season-premiere/106709756 and the problem would be listed on page 44 in the GHSP Bouldering Guide. It starts as per “Season Finale but breaks up and left off the start to finish at the feint knotch. A harder alternate start at (V6+) begins left of that and finished as per.

Other Various Guidebook Corrections and Updates:

  1. Guidebook Approach Direction Correction:

On page 96 in the Highlands description, the approach section says “From here, follow the Appalachian Trail Southbound to reach Horizon, Highball, and Sunset areas”… The description should say to follow it NORTHBOUND. Sorry… Correction noted.

2. Guidebook AVP problem map error:

It was brought to my attention that the boulder problem overlay for “Parlier’s Problem” “Mother Ship” and “S.Weaver” are incorrect. “Lifestyles” is correct, but there is an extra line in-between Lifestyles and Parlier’s Problem.

7 Responses to “Guidebook Updates”

  1. stuart cowles September 13, 2013 at 8:09 pm #

    Hey would would like to distribute these in our area, do you have a retailer program. I have a lot of customers asking if we are going to sell the book here . thanks

    • ajp1234 September 14, 2013 at 1:09 am #

      Stuart,
      You can buy the guidebook direct through the link on GraysonHighlandsBouldering.com, or, you can contact Dan Brayack through his website here: http://www.brayackmedia.com/

      At the bottom of his page there is a “contact” tab (it is unusually small) and you can email him with shipping or bulk questions. Glad you’re interested in the guidebook! And I love the climbmax gym!
      -Aaron Parlier

  2. ursa August 12, 2014 at 2:15 pm #

    You guys know when Aaron is putting out the 2nd edition guide book?
    Can’t wait for all of those problems in the new book. I’ll reserve it today!

    • ajp1234 August 12, 2014 at 3:15 pm #

      Soon! The first edition will be released through Rakkup, which is a smart phone/tablet app that updates with new areas/boulders/problems and gives turn by turn navigation on roads and trails to problems. Then the 2nd edition will put out after that. I should cover the best of the 1000+ documented climbs on Mountainproject and 4 entire new areas not listed in the 1st edition.

  3. user June 11, 2016 at 2:56 am #

    I was up by AVP today and it looked like there were some very apparent “Private Property – No Trespassing For Any Reason” signs on the main trail to the AVP boulder, just on the other side of the old fence (as well as farther up the hill where one would hop the fence to approach the main overhang straight on).

    I couldn’t find any information about access problems on the web, and wanted to check what the deal is (if anyone happens to know).

    • ajp1234 June 11, 2016 at 3:04 am #

      Hello! Yes, this is a new occurrence and I am actively investigating the signs. They are very apparent and cause for concern for sure. People have been bouldering at AVP for nearly 20 years without issues and the blocks themselves exist in an unofficial “grey area” despite the physical fence line (vague state/private boundaries). There are old grazing fences throughout the park interior that hold no property boundaries whatsoever. Anyway, unless something is said to climbers specifically Im not going to post a closure notice. I was up there yesterday and noticed the signs for the first time. I am talking to park officials currently to see if we can get specific surveys done for AVP. Thanks for the message and I will post if any closures apply in the future or if any updates are pertinent.
      -Aaron Parlier

      • user June 12, 2016 at 2:44 am #

        Thanks for the update. Glad to hear you’re on top of it!

        Thanks for publishing the guide, by the way. This place is great!

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