AVP AREA CLOSED TO CLIMBING

13 Jun

ATTENTION ALL GHSP CLIMBERS!

Access Alert for AVP Bouldering Area: AVP AREA CLOSED TO CLIMBING

Please respect this area closure: Climbing and all visitation is prohibited.

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With a heavy heart I am writing that the AVP Bouldering Area is now closed to all climbing and visitation. This closure covers the entirety of the AVP Area listed on pages 18-27 of the GHSP Bouldering Guidebook consisting of the AVP Boulder, Hero Boulder, Sidekick Boulder and their 40+ combined boulder problems. The Access Fund and Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition are both assessing the situation. Until more is understood, Grayson Highlands State Park is asking climbers to please consider the area permanently closed and off limits to climbing and visitation as a whole.

Some background on the area: AVP could easily be considered the origin of GHSP Bouldering. It is likely that folks climbed on the AVP Boulder prior to the 1990s but without a doubt a scene developed in the early 1990s at what is now the AVP Boulders. James Litz and a strong crew of Southeastern climbers developed much of the boulder problems on the hilltop from the 90s forward, and crews from North Carolina and Southwest Virginia continued sessions there well into the 2000s.

Around 2010 Park Officials indicated that the boulders sat on what may be the actual park boundary and suggested that they were considered to be in a “grey area” due to uncertain survey lines and a lack of precise GPS and survey information for that specific location. As climbers had been hiking in to AVP for a long time, the access situation was viewed as stable across the board. After 2010 GHSP approved bouldering in the park master plan for recreation. In 2013 the GHSP Bouldering Guidebook was published, choosing the AVP Boulder out of hundreds of other park blocks to be its cover photo. After 2013, AVP’s popularity grew with the guidebook’s release, and two of the Park’s most sought after boulder problems became “Front Man” (V5) and Jimmy Webb’s “Lifestyles” (V9).

Early, June 2016 “No Trespassing” signs were seen posted near the boulderfield.  By June 9th, flagging tape appeared along the old fence line beside the boulders, and by June 12th the realty company’s sign was purposefully planted by the climber access trail alerting visitors that tresspassing is prohibited.

The landowners for the property adjacent to the park have apparently sold the house and 30 acres. The private property signs and realty listing indicates that the property line includes the AVP, Hero and Sidekick Boulders.

Please be respectful of this closure. This cannot be stressed enough. Trespassing here could bring ramifications for Grayson Highlands State Park and the VA State Park system. If climbers trespass here it will reflect badly upon climbers and GHSP Bouldering as a whole.

Losing the AVP Area is a substantial loss to the Grayson Highlands Bouldering Community. AVP is a deeply special location for so many of us, and classics such as “Front Man” “Lifestyles” and many others will be missed. Fortunately, thanks to the VA State Park system, we still have access to the vastness that is the rest of GHSP. There are still ~1000 boulder problems to climb in Grayson, and the Park isn’t going anywhere. Huge thanks to all GHSP boulderers for respecting this closure, and a huge thanks to the State Park for protecting the Grayson Highlands landscape for the public to enjoy and embrace.

-Aaron Parlier

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2016 GHSP Bouldering & Stewardship Weekend

19 Apr

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Hello! It is time for the 4th annual GHSP Bouldering & Stewardship Weekend! I would like to thank everyone who has come out and participated in this grassroots stewardship event over the last four years. We have made a huge difference and helped set a precedence for how we can be collectively be greater stewards within the climbing and outdoor community. This year we will establish a climber path into the awesome Wildwood Area which will be included in the upcoming Volume 2 of the GHSP Bouldering Guidebook, along with the amazing Back of Beyond Area that was the focus of last year’s Stewardship Weekend. As always, this is a low key grassroots stewardship effort. There is no competition or big-time staged event. This is simply an organized group effort to help sustain one of the best and most beautiful boulderfields in Appalachia! For event volunteers, park entance is free, as is the nights camping (camping in the field is free, but if you reserve a standard park campsite the fee still applies) A short bullet point and summary for this year’s event is as follows:

  • Click on FB Event Page or message if you are able to attend
  • Bring gloves and closed toed shoes
  • Bring food, water/drinks
  • Bring Tent/hammock, sleeping bag (musical instrument if so inclined)
  • Bring climbing gear!
  • Raffle $$

 

  • Meet at 9:00am at the LRT parking lot on Saturday the 28th
  • Work on establishing trail into the Wildwood until 2:00pm
  • Climb in the Wildwood until dark/dinner time
  • Hang out/night climb and camp
  • Meet at 9:00 at LRT on Sunday the 29th
  • Pick up trash and improve trails until 2:00pm
  • Event will informally end after 2, but we will climb until the day’s end

 

Prior to Attending: Please message or click on the Facebook Event Page if you plan to attend. Please bring work gloves, closed-toed shoes (we will be moving big rocks), Food, Water, Super Soaker or water gun, Bouldering gear, Tent/hammock & Sleeping Bag. Consider bringing a guitar, ice cold sodas, and $10 or more for the SVCC Raffle!

Saturday the 28th will start at 9:00am at the Visitor Center/LRT parking lot. We will gather tools and head down to the awesome & exciting Wildwood Area. Please bring food & water, and work clothes. If you plan to stay and climb in the Wildwood, bring your crashpads and gear as well! We will establish a small footpath throughout the main boulderfield and improve landings there. We will stop working at around 2:00pm, and if you would like to climb elsewhere feel free to do so! Otherwise, hang out and get a tour of the Wildwood and session on GHSP’s newest and proudest blocks.

The night of the 28th we volunteers get to camp for free in the field above the Park Office. At 7:00 we will hold the raffle at the Park Office field, and afterward we can all go night bouldering, or hang out at the campsite fire ring.

The 29th starts at 9:00am again for picking up trash along trails, scrubbing off chalky holds with water-guns and brushes, and rock armoring landings. After 2:00pm, the event will informally end, and we all can go climb!  Thank any and all of you who plan to attend, and feel free to message me here or through the Facebook Event Page with any specific questions!

Wildwood Photos:

 

10 Reasons to Plan a GHSP Bouldering Trip

21 Feb

Here are ten reasons we should all be planning a climbing trip to the boulderfields of Southwest Virginia’s Grayson Highlands State Park this upcoming season:

1: It’s Beautiful: In case you have never heard of GHSP -maybe you stumbled upon this page searching for Southeastern bouldering and skipped over the photos- GHSP is simply breathtaking. Commonly called the “crown jewel of VA State Parks” and lovingly reminisced by Appalachian Trail hikers, the sweeping views and mountain scenery at Grayson are hard to beat. You can find a bounty of meandering trails winding through craggy boulderfields, open highland balds, along cascading waterfalls and shaded rhododendron and blueberry tunnels. Visitors can soak in the Appalachian vastness with three visible states, countless peaks, ridges and valleys. Sounds nice right? Come check it out!

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Its hard to beat the scenery (Jeff Greenough photo)

2: The best warm-weather bouldering in the Southeast: A lot of the park itself meets or exceeds 5,000ft in elevation. Grayson is connected to the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area (MRNRA), Wilson Creek Wilderness, Lewis Fork Wilderness, and several other high elevation recreation and wilderness designation areas. This lofty environment allows for much cooler temperatures than what Southeastern climbers are typically used to in the summer. When lower elevation climbing areas become manky, sweaty, buggy and overgrown with poison ivy, GHSP is prime for climbing. Even in June and early September you would be wise to bring a jacket for evening sessions in the Highlands and for hanging out later at camp.

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Summer sessions at their best (Dan Brayack)

3: Great climber access: The majority of the bouldering at the Picnic Area, Contact Station Area, and Listening Rock Trail are right beside the parking lot or within a lazy one minute stroll. There are boulders actually IN the park’s campground. Most of the boulders in the Boneyard  and AVP Areas likewise have a one or two minute approach. Be careful not to get spoiled by the lack of hiking you need to do in order to reach many of GHSP’s classic boulders!

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This boulder (and 50+  Picnic Area Boulder problems) is a 30 second walk from the parking lot (Dan Brayack Photo)

4: Park staff: The Grayson Highlands park staff are simply amazing. Without these fantastic folks and all their hard work and dedication Grayson Highlands wouldn’t be the magical place it is today, and bouldering here wouldn’t be an option. Having trouble finding boulders? Ask a Ranger or staff member and they can steer you toward the closest one. Need chalk, a chalk bag, brush, crashpad, or guidebook? Stop by the park office. Questions about the park in general? These folks are experts. The park staff loves climbers so don’t hesitate to stop by and ask questions about anything park or bouldering related! With that being said, don’t try to camp anywhere that is not designated or have open alcohol containers. Tickets and fines aren’t cheap.

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Harvey Thompson, the legendary Park Manager at GHSP, dancing like no one is watching at one of the many park festivals

5: Camping & amenities: The GHSP campground is phenomenal. Warm showers, cozy tent camping spots, and the nearby camp store is chocked full of essential camp goodies and firewood. Likewise, the bouldering within the campground isn’t shabby either, some being directly beside campsites, and the awesome Wilson Creek Boulder is within easy walking distance from your tent. Trees galore are perfect for after session slacklining and if you plan it right there are fun park programs and bluegrass shows in the campground amphitheater. Budget camping or looking for more adventure and solitude during your stay? If you plan ahead for backcountry camping in the Mount Rogers National Rec Area (MRNRA), its free! The hike takes at least 30min and you are rewarded with a serene camp setting and view that is out of this world (oh yeah, and you might wake up with a majestic herd of wild miniature ponies around you tent). Not to mention that sets you up for easy access to the lesser traveled and adventurous MRNRA back country boulder fields.

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Back country camping in the MRNRA

6: Plentiful Problems: Grayson Highlands State Park has the greatest quantity of boulder problems in Virginia. All you have to do is visit Mountain Project to see just how many climbs that have been documented in GHSP over the past decade. With Grayson topping 1,000 listed boulder problems its easy to get overwhelmed with the sheer amount of climbing the park offers. To ease the task of finding the best of the best, volume 1 of the Grayson Highlands Bouldering Guidebook covers the 350 of the most classic lines and the upcoming 2nd volume will showcase new areas, boulders, and all of their best problems as well. There is something for every climber from comfortable and fun V0s to the hardest boulder problem in VA. No matter who you are you have plenty to keep you occupied for many visits and years to come.

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Over one thousand documented problems and counting… (Kai Bottcher photo)

7: Family friendly:  Ever find yourself in the situation where you love to climb but its tough to get the whole family or your significant other on board with a climbing trip? It can be tough! Many climbing areas are only fun for climbers, leaving everyone else involved only slightly entertained. Grayson Highlands is a great place for the whole family. There are amazing hikes with beautiful views, berry bushes ripe for the picking, waterfalls and park programs. There are playgrounds too! Spend half a day climbing and half of the day visiting all the other fun adventures and opportunities throughout the highlands. A day trip hike to VA’s tallest mountain, Mount Rogers, is one you all wont soon forget. Oh yeah, and don’t miss out on the ponies!

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Erica Lineberry and little Canaan exploring both big and small boulders in GHSP (Erica Lineberry photo)

8: PONIES!: Yep, there is a free-range miniature pony herd roaming the Highlands. These little ones are a star attraction at GHSP. With a usual number of 20-30 adorable little ponies prancing around the gorgeous Appalachian High Country, you can bet that even the most hardened individual will be pausing, smiling and taking photos. Keep a look out for “Fabio” the long haired rock star pony of the park who occasionally appears from the Mountain Laurel thickets to steal the show. For even more pony action, hike into the MRNRA where twice the number of free-range ponies call home.

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Rock star pony. Such mane.

9: Park events: GHSP has a number of awesome park events which are great reasons to plan a climbing trip to coincide with. First and foremost would have to the the Wayne C Henderson Music Festival & Guitar Competition. This event is awesome, with top notch live music and tons of vendors and delicious food right there in the Picnic Area. You can expect quite the crowd, with guitar and old time music lovers from around the world attending. Another old-time and bluegrass event is the Albert Hash Memorial Festival. The Albert Hash Memorial Festival is a bit more low key than the Wayne C Henderson event, but no less awesome and full of talented musicians. Another event is the Grayson Highlands Fall Festival, and it is always a good time! Food vendors, and of course music! Lastly I have to mention the Grayson Highlands Bouldering & Stewardship Weekend which is always on Memorial Weekend. This event is informal, fun and fulfilling. We work half of the day improving trails, landings, picking up trash, erasing tick marks, and cleaning chalky holds. The last half is for climbing! Also, it is a two day event and typically that night there is a memorial weekend bluegrass or mountain music show. Don’t miss it! More info on the 2016 GHSP Bouldering & Stewardship weekend will be posted soon.

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Wayne C. Henderson Music Festival & Guitar Competition in GHSP’s Picnic Area

10: Adventure and variety: Although GHSP has tons super easy approaches and wonderful amenities, those looking for a bit more adventure in their outing need not look far. The park has many secluded but classic climbs that are rarely traveled. There is also back country camping and climbing opportunities strewn throughout the MRNRA and surrounding wilderness where you undoubtedly will not see another climber or find a trace of chalk. As for variety, GHSP has several different styles of climbing with varying geology within the park itself. High in the Highlands the rock is a fine grained rhyolite. It is also considerably more rounded and smooth from weathering than the park’s boulderfields slightly lower in elevation. Lower down the rock changes to a distinct metamorphic sandstone. These boulders have interesting rounded river rocks embedded in them from an ancient stream bed while others have striking quartzite veins (some boulders like the Tiger Side Boulder have both). These embedded, smooth pebbles and rocks are can vary from pink to white in color and are often part of the climbs themselves. These metamorphic boulders are very steep; leading to crimpy, powerful climbing. Even lower in the park in areas such as the Contact Station and Boneyard the rounded river rock deposits disappear and the boulders become uniformly dark grey in color and loaded with crimpy, steep problems with the occasional slopey top out. As climbers, one of the best things we can do to better our craft is to experience and practice varying climbing styles and and climb in different and contrasting locations. GHSP is definitely unique, with a it’s own feel, style and geology standing out from many boulderfields throughout the Southeast. If you haven’t visited GHSP yet, or are planning a trip to the Southeast, be sure to plan for a session in GHSP this upcoming season!

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“Indian Outlaw”(V3) on the Rock House Boulder (Dan Brayack photo)

 

Problem of the Week #18: “Indian Outlaw”(V3)

18 Feb

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This popular and ridiculously easy-to-access problem is one you don’t want to miss out on if you haven’t climbed the line multiple times already. “Indian Outlaw”(V3) is located on the Rock House Boulder in the Picnic Area of the park. This boulder is directly beside the parking lot and the trailhead sign post for the Rock House Ridge Trail. The boulder takes its namesake due to the fact that Cherokee artifacts were found by the Rock House Boulder and it is rumored that the rock itself may have at one time served as a house or shelter.  The name of the climb can be traced to Tim McGraw’s country song, “Indian Outlaw,” which found a place on the Top 10 Billboard Country Singles charts in March of 1994. Both this song and the boulder problem have some controversy. The song’s controversy being that it fairly harshly perpetuates a profusion of Native American stereotypes. The boulder problem’s controversy, by comparison, is almost not worth talking about… However, being Grayson Highlands Bouldering and all, we will cover it at some length at the end of the write up. You’re welcome.

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This line works out from the initial steepness to a few edges and then up a right trending ramp. At the top of the ramp is a thin horizontal and a bigger move to a sloper, followed by a nice jug for the top out.

With the boulder being literally beside the trail, if you have never taken the entire Rock House loop trail before, its well worth your while. Virginiaoutdoors.com writes that: “Rock House Ridge Trail is a 1.4 mile, moderate difficulty loop that is accessible near the picnic area. At the trail head stands a large rock, the far side of which slants inward creating a shelter. Cherokee Indian artifacts were once found near this rock. During May and June you can find the pink lady’s slipper orchid, or moccasin flower, growing in the woods near the ‘rock house.’ The trail winds through thickets of rhododendron along a narrow path, working uphill and downhill through hardwoods and mountain laurel and, for a short distance, alongside the Wilburn Branch Trail before returning to the trail head. This trail is closed from November 1 to May 1”. While on the subject of the trail, please take caution not to obstruct Park visitors from hiking. Be mindful of your crashpads and move them if hikers are obstructed from walking by.

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The trail description above is right on the money. The rhodos form awesome tunnels all along the way. Nice sweeping mountain views can be had as you hike past open fields and the terrain is mostly easy going. Also, an obscure block called the Fluids Boulder is a short distance up the trail with some funky, rarely traveled lines to try.

Do miss out on the Rock House’s other amazing, park classic problems either! These include “Ghost Dance” (V7), “Cherokee Dihedral”(V1), “Arrowhead Arete”(V3), and “Dark Horse” (V7-).

Now for Indian Outlaw’s minor controversy (to be more accurate, its a minor and not important climber argument). This stems from the arguable “correct” start hold. Is it the true sit start jug down low, or the slightly higher side-pull jug? I’ll tell you my view on it all which is that the lower, butt dragging sit start does not add a grade so it really isn’t much of an issue either way. But, if you are a purest in that you like to start as low as possible on a boulder and finish by walking off of the back, please do the sit start… I personally always elect for the sit start, but view it as an option. Sometimes it is nice to not start sitting, especially when the grade doesn’t change whatsoever. Both views are legitimate and the discussion really is pointless at the end of the day. Probably the best thing we can do is collectively rally behind how awesomely terrible the song Indian Outlaw actually is, and choose our own personal best start holds for “Indian Outlaw”(V3).

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Grayson Highlands General Store & Inn

3 Jan

Hey folks! I’m not sure if you have had the chance to stop by the Grayson Highlands General Store & Inn yet, but this past summer/fall the business changed hands and the building got a nice makeover. As you drive up on 58, to your left you will see the nice white building with a brand new deck, outside tables, and a new outdoor sign. This is now the closest grocery (nice beer selection) and restaurant to the park, and the owner is psyched for climbers to come by!

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I stopped by recently and spoke with Dennis Conroy, the owner of the Grayson Highlands General Store & Inn. He is super nice and couldn’t be more excited to be living in the area. He has a solid selection of organic groceries and plenty of foods to take back to camp. He also has plans to open the top floor as a rental Inn, so look for that on the horizon as well!

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The restaurant menu looks fantastic and I cant wait to get back up there for a post session meal. Hot pizza, subs, hotdogs and more. Oh yeah, and breakfast! Stop by on your next trip up!

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Last Copies of the GHSP Boulderfield Map!

15 Dec

Hello! For the holidays I have made a limited, last run of the Grayson Highlands Boulderfield Map. This will be the very last printing of the original Map. I am currently drawing an updated, more expansive boulderfield map for the park with more problems, boulders, and areas. The new map will be quite different, so if you enjoy the look of the original map, get it while you can! Thanks to everyone who has purchased one of the maps in the past, I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

Please visit this link to order one of the remaining GHSP Boulderfield Prints, and have an awesome winter season!

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Blue Ridge Outdoors Magazine & GHSP Bouldering

30 Oct

Hello! The fall season is quickly coming to an end but there are still (hopefully) a few solid weeks left ahead of us with quality autumn conditions before snow, ice, and arctic conditions take hold. A few weeks back I had the chance to hang out with some great folks from Blue Ridge Outdoors Magazine in GHSP for a short video shoot and to talk a little about SWVA and Boone area bouldering. The fall foliage was stunning, temperatures were crisp, and we got to tour some classics and more recently found, still obscure blocks in the park. Here is the link to this awesome article and also, below is the short video. Thanks BROM and Live Outside And Play for showcasing some of the most beautiful blocks in the Southeast!

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